SUSHISAMBA Review: The Japanese-Latino favourite rolls into Riyadh

The SUSHISAMBA legacy thrives in the Kingdom.

The year is 2012, and as a Londoner, SUSHISAMBA is the talk of the town, having opened at the top of the Heron Tower near Liverpool Street Station. That summer, I spent many evenings enjoying panoramic views of the Square Mile while savouring the restaurant’s beguiling blend of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cultures and cuisines.

Fast-forward a decade and I find myself at the newly opened SUSHISAMBA Riyadh. Located in the heart of King Abdullah Financial District, this expansive restaurant joins a growing list of renowned international names making their mark in the city, alongside Carbone, Gymkhana, La Petite Maison and Mr. Chow.

Greeted by the illuminated orange tree, a hallmark of the brand, my guest and I pass through ornate doors carved with the same imagery before entering a dark and sultry interior. SUSHISAMBA Riyadh boasts the brand’s familiar design, décor, and DNA, with the impressive circular bar serving as a central beacon, activating the energy of the room with refreshing beverages and signature creations.

Elsewhere, a spiral staircase leads up to a 16-seat private dining room, while open show kitchens for both sushi and the robata grill showcase the technique behind the Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian plates. With Japanese dragon motifs painted on the walls and light fittings that entangle the ceiling like a canopy of tree branches, it’s a classy clash of cultures that perfectly captures the energy of the tropical venue.

As we observe the busy dinner service early on a Saturday evening, it’s clear that SUSHISAMBA Riyadh is a resounding success. The courteous service, brilliant beverages, and eclectic menu that reads like a marriage of COYA and Zuma, all contribute to its popularity.

Delving into the menu, which retains around 75 per cent of dishes from SUSHISAMBA’s global locations, we appreciate the familiarity of the crisp plantain chips (SAR 50) before exploring the raw and robata dishes. The Crispy Yellowtail Taquitos (SAR 75) are a dainty duo, which while small, are packed with flavour. Similarly, the seviche selection offers impressive choices, with the Salmon (SAR 120) being a clear favourite thanks to its tropical combination of tamarind ponzu, sesame, seaweed and candied macadamia nuts for a textural treat.

We plough headfirst into the selection of Samba Rolls. The Samba Riyadh (SAR 120) is exclusive to the Kingdom and has been designed with the Saudi palate in mind. It features a divisive combo of crab, Medjool dates, beef bacon, aji date jam and a parmesan crust. This Editor-in-Chief was enamoured. The rest of our table, not so much. However, the colourful Tiger Maki (SAR 100) proved a popular plate, rolling crab, shrimp tempura and wasabi mayo before being doused in an alluring beetroot yoghurt. As has become the norm for SUSHISAMBA, the O-Toro and Chu-Toro sashimi are excellent.

SUSHISAMBA Riyadh’s robata section showcases seafood, vegetables and meats cooked over binchotan in the Josper charcoal oven or on the grill. Popular choices include the Black Cod Miso Anticuchos (SAR 150) and the Chicken A La Brasa (SAR 200). The latter, marinated Peruvian-style for 48 hours before being robata roasted is served with a fiery aji amarillo mayonnaise. Steaks and large plates prevail with the Moqueca Mista (SAR 250) seafood stew showcasing an aromatic and truly tasty mix of black cod, shrimp, squid coconut milk and chimichurri rice.

Even the dessert programme delights, featuring sweet treats like the FACT favourite Japanese Doughnuts Adagi. These pockets of perfection offer an elevated take on the humble dessert that is soft and sugary on the outside and served with a raspberry dipping sauce. 

SUSHISAMBA Riyadh has only been open for a short time but is already one of the most in-demand reservations in town. Although Riyadh lacks the sky-high setting of its counterparts in Dubai and London, it makes up for it with its outdoor terrace and a glass enclosure with views of the Wadi. For those who’ve dined at SUSHISAMBA across the globe, there will be a simmering of familiarity and nostalgia, and an abundance of rich, return-worthy flavours.

GO: Visit www.sushisamba.com for reservations and more information.