Sagetsu by Tetsuya Wakuda Review: A marriage of Japanese ingredients and French technique

Experience Japanese flair inside the world’s longest cantilever.

The Link at One Za’abeel has instantly impressed Dubai diners with its dazzling design and a constellation of celebrity superstars, including Anne-Sophie Pic, Dabiz Muñoz and Tetsuya Wakuda. When the MICHELIN Guide came calling, the world’s longest cantilever answered, and accolades were quickly bestowed upon the fancy French restaurant La Dame de Pic and the refined Japanese eatery Sagetsu by Tetsuya Wakuda. It was an impressive feat, considering the restaurants had only been open for six months. 

Located on the 24th floor of the futuristic floating boulevard, Sagetsu by Tetsuya Wakuda marks Tetsuya’s dining debut in Dubai. The restaurant’s name is inspired by astronomy, as sagetsu refers to the sand and the moon in Japanese. This is displayed visually in a stunning artistic representation on the dining room wall.

For the uninitiated, Tetsuya Wakuda is a Japanese-born Australian culinary luminary celebrated for his artful fusion of Japanese ingredients with French culinary techniques. Originally from Hamamatsu, Japan, Tetsuya opened his acclaimed restaurant, Tetsuya’s, in Sydney in 1982, which closed in July 2024 after 37 years of operation. He also operates the two MICHELIN-starred Waku Ghin in Singapore and Wakuda at The Venetian Las Vegas.

Sagetsu by Tetsuya Wakuda in Dubai boasts a sleek and sophisticated design. The entranceway is made of bamboo and wood and wows with its views of the skyline and Burj Khalifa. Combining the old and new, it includes traditional influences from Japan with a modern aesthetic. The bar features a table made from natural rock with earthy tones and jutting edges, while the clean and contemporary décor includes neutral colours with beige, browns and greys.

Sagetsu by Tetsuya Wakuda can accommodate up to 48 diners across different spaces. The open kitchen lets you discreetly glimpse the chefs at work from a dining room with smart, soft sofas and chairs with wooden accents. The dining concept draws inspiration from the changing seasons, emphasising seasonal ingredients complemented by a selection of signature sakes, Insta-worthy views of the city, and a crackling fireplace.

The restaurant offers a selection of tasting menus starting at AED 900. We opt for the Suna menu, which begins with a clear, umami-laden dashi made from seven types of fish. What follows is a sophisticated succession of courses that build like a crescendo, in which each picture-perfect plate surpasses what has come before. And, while not everything is a hit, the nine courses impress.

A savoury egg custard topped with aonori seaweed and Ikura caviar is somewhat of a textural oddity but is executed with precision and finesse. The Norwegian Salmon, cut thick and swimming in a miso citrus vinaigrette with tonburi (land caviar), is a testament to Tetsuya’s determination to source the finest ingredients, offering a pretty plate full of competing flavours that harmonise rather than overpower.

The Saroma Wagyu Beef, sourced from the largest prefecture in Japan, is layered over sushi rice like a soft blanket before being lightly torched. The result: a dainty dish that once again showcases premium produce while offering a rich, buttery texture that contrasts beautifully with the fiery yuzu kosho condiment.  

The tasting menu continues with carpaccio-style bluefin tuna served with white button mushrooms and a tempura selection featuring prawns, shisho leaf and sweet potato. However, the main course of Patagonian Toothfish, known for its delicate buttery texture, impresses the most. Served with a vibrant ginger-orange zest, the steamed fish exudes a refreshing, citrusy aroma that complements the subtle sweetness of the flesh. The sharpness of the ginger adds a pleasant warmth, cutting through the toothfish’s creamy flesh without overpowering it. Dried Japanese olives bring an earthy depth and a textural contrast to the tender fish.

The duo of desserts include a Lychee Granita with white peach and fromage blanc sorbet to clean the palate, followed by a Japanese twist on tiramisu that uses chocolate sorbet and date paste hidden between a crunchy chocolate tuile.

With a special sake selection created especially for the restaurant, ceremonial albeit proficient service, and a focus on Japanese cuisine using French techniques, Sagetsu by Tetsuya Wakuda is impressive. While the food and the view are the main draw, the atmosphere is lacking, with piped-piano music feeling more cruise ship than cantilever chic.

Sagetsu is a place to admire the food, invest in the storytelling and learn a little along the way. So, wet your chopsticks for a better grip, and whet your appetite. 

GO: Visit www.sagetsudubai.com for reservations and more information.